Wednesday 25 April, 2007
I was walking a bit further than I would have wished today. Ideally I would have spent the night in Ribblehead and taken my preferred alternative route by the Craven Way Track over the shoulder of Whernside to Dent the following day. That was not to be; there was no room at the (Ribblehead) Inn.
Because of the longer day I was hoping for an early start. In the event my leaving was later than I’d hoped: the breakfast and company were much too good. I said my farewells to the Leeds ladies, who were travelling at a slightly slower rate, and my hellos to a young German couple who weren’t.
The walk along Langstrothdale is one of my favourite sections of the walk. The Wharf runs fast wild in wild, remote and lonely surroundings. The long haul along Oughtershaw Side, up to the Cam High Road, can be, and was, trying. The only southbound Dales Way walkers were met on the climb, they were walking home to West Yorkshire.
When I first came this way with Rita we were greeted at Cam Houses with the offer of tea and a snack. Never did a bacon butty taste better. On the second occasion there was no bacon, but an invite to help ourselves to a brew of tea in the camping barn. This time the buildings were deserted.
It was cold on the Cam High Road, the only company was a trial biker manfully adding his own meagre scars to the horrendously churned and rutted track. I did my best to be rude.
The last few miles from Gearstones were a bit of a grind. I hit an energy gap. Not terribly surprising in view of my lack of preparation and fitness, but unwelcome nevertheless.
I eventually got to Lea Yeat after six, tired and footsore. No actual blisters had developed though.
After tea, a snack and a shower I couldn’t be bothered walking the mile back to the Sportsman Inn for a meal.
Accomodation: Quaker Meeting House Bed & Breakfast, Lea Yeat, Near Cowgill, Dentdale, LA10 5RF (01539 625592)
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