Day 5: Sedbergh to Burneside (17 miles)

Friday 27 April, 2007

After an indifferent night at the Dalesman, sleep disturbed by music from the bar late into the night, I set off on the penultimate day in glorious weather. The first day apart, the gods were very kind. In fact the ground was much dryer and firmer than I had reason to expect in April.

The walk along the Lune, under the Howgills, was, as ever, magnificent. This stretch of the Lune must be one of the finest riverside walks in the Dales. The river teems with wildlife. I had a rare sighting of a Kingfisher on my last visit to its banks. Yet the M6, high on the hill side to the north, remains visible for much of the way.

It was on this section that my body adapted to the exercise: I actually began to enjoy the exertion.

The Crook of Lune is an idyllic spot: sparkling water, ancient bridge, renovated mill and picturesque cottage. I spoke briefly to an occupant of the mill. Her mother, who had provided drinks and a chat on both my previous visits, was still fit and well and offering hospitality to passing Dales Way walkers. Today must have been her day off; her daughter supplied the water.

The M6 seems to be in view for an age before it is eventually crossed and quickly left behind. The Dales have been left behind, the Lake District not yet entered. My memories from previous visits were that this in-between interlude was dull and lacking in interest. It must have been that the weather was poor or the spirits were low: today it was magnificent.

I didn’t see any walkers until I was having a final refreshment stop on the approach to Burneside. Tom and June, last seen at Cowgill, were charging down the hill as though it was their first mile on the trail. I beat them to the Jolly Anglers by ten minutes.

The reunion was enhanced an hour later when the German couple appeared, looking very much the worst for wear. They’d had a hard day, made worse by route finding errors. By the third pint their spirits were lifting. When they took their taxi to Kendal they were happy.

The Jolly Anglers is a good pub with fine food. It was a terrific evening. I particularly enjoyed the Landlord’s reaction when I asked for a non-alcoholic beer; I settled for lemonade. The rooms are basic and over-expensive though.

Accommodation: Jolly Anglers, Burneside, Kendal, Cumbria, LA9 6QS (01539 732552)