The first pull of the walk was an 800 foot climb up Cotter End a mile or two out of Hawes – something of a shock to the system after having had a sedate ride over to the Dales. Never mind; I eventually got to the top.
Since getting back to work from the Dales Way I’d tackled the 143 steps to my office on the tenth floor of a tower block each day. The effort paid off. My stamina was much improved over my spring outing.
Once up the ridge the hard business of the day was done, it was downhill all the way to Kirkby Stephen. The path is signed “The Lady Anne Clifford Highway” from the dead end lane to Cotterdale, is sometimes called “Lady Anne's Way”, but more prosaically dubbed “The High Way” on the map. Whatever the name, it’s a glorious green track. It contours the hill high above upper Wensleydale, with the Moorcock Inn, on the Garsdale road, far below.
After passing long abandoned farms Cumbria is entered at Hell Gill Bridge and the headwaters of the Eden are crossed. Wild Boar Fell looms impressively across Mallerstang.
The Watercut is a sculpture at the side if the track, remote from any road. It was made by Mary Bourne and set up by the East Cumbria Countryside Project. Like other public art works in the countryside, (those in Strid Woods, near Bolton Abbey, are other examples), I’m never sure whether to decry them as an urbanisation of wild places, or simply to appreciate them for their craft. In the case of the Watercut, I think I’ll settle for admiration.
My route gradually lost height before crossing Thrang Bridge and following a course near the river. The substantial ruin of Pendragon Castle was passed, followed by the fragmentary remains of Lammerside Castle and the inhabited Wharton Hall, an impressive 14th century tower house.
I got to Kirby Stephen with plenty of time to call at the outdoor shop to replace the socks and waterproof I’d inadvertently left at home.
The walk went through grand, outstanding country. Despite this, and the excellent weather, I’d only seen two other pairs of other walkers all day. Although footsore my feet, always a concern, were blister free.
Accommodation: Black Bull Hotel, 38 Market St, Kirkby Stephen, Cumbria, CA17 4QW
3 comments:
What is the last photo? A pile of slate with some hollowed out rooms? An mock imitation of the gum-drop hills of Guilin, China? An abandoned caravanserai?
Lammerside Castle near Kirkby Stephen.
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